This page will be updated as we at GlockParts receive additional questions.
Q-Are the .40 cal. firing pin and the 9mm. firing pin really different? I can't tell the difference.
A-Yes, the .40 cal. S&W firing pin is .015 in. longer than the 9mm firing pin.
Q-Why does the new trigger with trigger bar for the G-20, G20-SF, G-21, and G-21-SF have a different number (4256-1) on it than the part number (SP04417)?
A-Because the number on the trigger bar is the internal Glock part number for the bar only, no trigger. There are two trigger with trigger bar assemblies that have the 4256-1 trigger bar in them. They are the SP04417 smooth trigger and the SP01194 with the grooved trigger on it.
Q-What is the copper colored grease on the slide and connector that comes from the factory?
A-It is an anti-sieze substance called Beryllium. It should be cleaned off and replaced with oil or white grease prior to shooting the pistol when it is new. (As of the 2006 Glock Owner's Manual, Glock recommends leaving the Beryllium on the slide). Prior to that, they recommended cleaning it off. So the bottom line is, it doesn't really matter because it will be worn off after several hundred rounds anyway.
Q-Why is the stock slide release so difficult to operate?
A-Because the slide release was not designed to be a 'release', but as it is correctly named: a 'slide stop lever'. The stock slide stop lever is designed to only lock back the slide, not release it. This is because the original design of the Glock pistol was to be used as a combat pistol and use the overhand technique to release the slide and charge the pistol. The extended slide stop lever is designed to be a slide release and enables the shooter to use their thumb to release the slide.
Q-Why is the 4lb striker spring not recommended for duty or carry?
A-Because with the 4lb striker spring the firing pin doesn't strike the primer as hard as with the stock firing pin spring. The result is a more conventional dot type indentation on the primer as opposed to the wedge type strike from the Glock firing pin. This could mean that one in a thousand chance of encountering a hard primer or possibly a primer that has been seated too low and therefore having a misfire.
Q-Can I change my trigger on a compact or sub compact to the smooth style?
A-Yes, you can. The serrated triggers on the compacts and the sub compacts are to get the pistols through customs, as they are "target triggers" and give the pistols more points for import. Otherwise they are identical. So if you are getting your finger rubbed raw by the serration, just change to the smooth style trigger w/ trigger bar for your pistol. (The SP00357, for the 9mm, .40 cal. and .357 , the SP03608 for the
Gen 4 9mm., .40, & .357 or the SP04417 for the .45 & 10mm Gen 1-4 ) The G-19 that has a serial number prior to 'EH000' has a special trigger bar (SP01293), so it will not work on that model. Also the G-36 has it's own trigger bar (SP02096) , so it will not work. The G-37 trigger bar (SP03608) will fit into the G-38 & 39.
Q-Can I change my .40 cal. Glock to a .357?
A-Yes, it is easy. Just replace the barrel of the pistol with the same length barrel in the .357 Sig. For instance replace the G-22 with the G-31 barrel, the G-23 with the G-32 barrel, and the G-27 with the G-33 barrel. Also, you can change the .357 Sig. cal. Glock to the .40 the same way. That means for about $100 you can have two calibers.
Q-Do I have to get the .357 mags if I change the barrel to a .357?
A-No, the magazines are the same for the .357 and .40 cal., so they are interchangeable.
Q-Do I need to change my sight if I change from a .40 cal barrel to a .357 barrel?
A-You don't have to, but the G-31 and the G-32 barrels that are put into the G-22 and G-23 pistols, respectively, are going to shoot about 3 inches low at 20 yards. The G-31 and G-32 pistols come with a 6.9mm rear sight, which is the same rear sight as used on the G-20 and 21, etc. The solution to this problem is to put an adjustable sight on the slide, sight the gun in with both barrels and mark the position on the sight for each caliber. Otherwise, if you expect your shooting to be inside 10 or 15 yards, don't worry about it. Also, this does not apply to the G-33 barrel with the G-27 pistol, no change is necessary.
Q-Can I change my .40 cal. into a 9mm?
A-It can be done now with the LWD-229N stainless barrel for the G-22. It turns your .40 cal G-22 into a 9mm. I don't recommend it with the Glock OEM barrel for the following reasons: The headspace is not tight when the barrel is in full battery (locked against the breechface). It just is not tight, it will fire and cycle, but it is not tight and therefore, most likely less reliable. With the LWD-229N you should replace the ejector, as the .40 cal. ejector will not make solid contact on the rim of the 9mm case. Third, of course, you would need the 9mm mags. The .40 cal. firing pin, the extractor, and the rest of the internals will work fine.
Q-Can I change my 9mm to a .40 cal.?
A-No, the barrel will not lock up in the ejection port. (Its too big)
Q-I have an older Glock (generation 1), can you upgrade the internal parts in it with the newer upgrade parts?
A-Yes, just send the upgrade parts (Trigger w/ trigger bar, firing pin safety, firing pin, ejector, extractor, and spring loaded bearing with the serial number of the pistol) to Glockparts.com LLC, and we will send the upgrade parts back to you within 48 hrs. Total cost is $15.00.
Q-What can I do to optimize my new pistol immediatley?
A-The first thing that you need to do is field strip the new Glock pistol and clean the copper colored material from the metal to metal contacts. Then you need to be sure to lubricate those spots with a grease that will stay around for a while (We recommend Mil Comm TW25B for this application) . Particularly, under the hook at the rear and top of the receiver where the triggerbar meets the connector. This will smooth out your trigger pull immediately. Also, be sure to put a drop on the rails of the slide where they meet the metal rails on the receiver and a little on the outside of the barrel.
Secondly, you could have your trigger pull changed to either a 3.5lb connector with a competition spring or for a carry gun go with the 3.5lb connector and a NY1 spring to give you about a 5lb consistant pull from beginning to end and a quicker trigger reset.
Q-What is the trigger reset?
A-The reset is after your first shot how far you need to release the trigger on subsequent shots before you can fire another shot. (You can hear the click at about 1/3 return on the Glock)
Q-Where do I need to apply lubrication on my Glock?
A-Only on the parts that have metal to metal contact. ie: the slide rails, under the hook at the rear where the trigger bar rubs on the connector, on the outside of the barrel and the lug on the bottom of the barrel. Never in the magazine or around the firing pin channel or the breechface where the firing pin comes out. LUBRICATION POINTS ON THE GLOCK PISTOL.
Q-How do I know when to replace my recoil spring assembly?
A-There are several indications. One is if your gun is clean and you are using factory ammunition and the slide will not return to the full battery position. (Locked in with the barrel up even with the slide) To check this unload your pistol by removing the magazine from the mag well and ejecting any round that might be in the chamber. Lock back the slide and double check to be sure there is not a round in the chamber. Then, let the slide go back into full battery pull the trigger and hold it to the rear while pointing the pistol up and in a safe direction, then pull the slide back and slowly let the slide go forward. If it stops before going into full battery, you are ready for a new recoil spring assembly.
If you have a question, please e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org.